Inspiring Trip

Argentine Patagonia: take the family to the end of the world

The region known as Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia, El Calafate and El Chaltén make the Argentine Patagonia a destination for adventure, contemplation and plenty of enjoyment amidst the glaciers, lakes and trails

By Nathalia Hein

Leaving the comfort zone and opting for unusual destinations is always a challenge for those traveling with children. “What if there is no infrastructure? What if it’s very tiring? What if they don’t like it?”: these are some of the constant doubts that can discourage an “out of the box” trip. However, just glance at the schedule full of natural attractions and adventures in the Argentine Patagonia. It is a place full of possible itineraries to do as a family, with the chance to “tick off” some of the items from your wish list, such as seeing the largest glacier in South America, which is hundreds of years old, interact with penguins and admire some of the most spectacular views on the planet.

First of all, it is necessary to know that, although the immediate image of the Patagonian landscape refers to winter, this is a trip to be taken in the spring and, more often, in the summer. Between October and January, the temperatures are milder, although still freezing, and the perennial snow of the region has a break and the green plains can be appreciated.

Your itinerary should include the main cities of Argentine Patagonia, such as Ushuaia and El Calafate, with possible trips to El Chaltén and even Bariloche, which, although renowned as a ski resort, offers great open air entertainment options in the other seasons of the year.

One of the most common alternatives for Brazilians is to travel to Tierra del Fuego via Buenos Aires. Here you can spend a few days filled with activities and museums to visit with the children (read the article about Buenos Aires with children), and from there fly direct to Ushuaia or El Calafate. Those who want to avoid this stop can, since June of this year, go direct from São Paulo to Ushuaia on a new Aerolíneas Argentinas flight, which is currently available twice a week. Either way, arriving at the end of the world is going to be a lot more fun than you ever imagined.

Ushuaia

Known as the “southernmost city in the world,” Ushuaia makes use of this name to attract tourists from all over the world. In addition, of course, its raw and strong beauty is impressive: between the Andes and the Beagle Channel, it is also the starting point for most of the expeditions to Antarctica and has a constant movement of tourists. The capital of Tierra del Fuego is also a focus of interest and exploration and deserves at least four days of your time.

Although it is very popular as a ski resort, it is in the summer that you can enjoy the best of the region. The program includes entertaining journeys to be enjoyed at any age, such as the trip on the End of the World Train, which may be on the itinerary for those visiting the Tierra del Fuego National Park. It’s about a one-hour journey aboard a replica of the old train that transported the inmates between the now defunct prison and the park over a hundred years ago. There are even extras dressed as prisoners to entertain the children, who adore the adventure. A good tip is to choose one of the first-class cabins, where an enjoyable coffee with bread and cakes is served. With or without a train, the park is essential for many “oohs” and “aahs” in the face of so much beauty. Furthermore, it is also where the southernmost post office in the world is located: here you can buy stamps and stamp your passports with this extreme location. To get to the post office, located in the Zaratiegui Bay, the Lapataia viewpoint and other tourist spots, it is always advisable to use specialized guides who can provide all the required infrastructure. An important tip for those with children: do not trust the warmth of the sun. Take warm clothes, coats and thermal clothing, as well as water and snacks, because it can get very windy in the region and the tour usually lasts a whole day.

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Another enjoyable program is to go on a boat trip through the Beagle Channel, which is the strait that separates the islands of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago and connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It is an excellent opportunity to see seals and sea lions, as well as different species of birds, and to visit the lighthouse at the end of the world. Similarly, a visit to Isla Martillo, known as the “penguin colony,” and to walk among the penguins that migrate there in the summer is certain to enchant the whole family. Despite the somewhat strong smell of the animals – the children will love it. To embark on this program, it is necessary to use local travel agencies to dock on the island after a short boat trip that leaves from the Estância Harberton, a famous local property.

Spend a whole day on an off-road expedition with amphibious cars that visit the Escondido and Fagnano Lakes, with beautiful views of the Cordillera and the forests devastated by beavers. A stop for a succulent Argentinian roast meal in a typical cabin ends the day on a high note.

Even with days of long and sometimes tiring walks, Ushuaia is a very pleasant city for night-time walks, full of bars, excellent restaurants (try Centolla, which is a giant crab from the icy waters) and many stores (the city is a free zone and has great shopping opportunities). Therefore, staying close to the center, near to the Avenida San Martin, is always a practical alternative for the purpose of logistics. A very good option, the Cilene del Faro Suites & Spa is an apart-hotel, with an equipped kitchen and is also quite sophisticated. The great highlight of the hotels in the region, however, is the incredible Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa, which is a luxury hotel with a complete leisure infrastructure, haute cuisine and is extremely refined. Located a little away from the center, in the Cerro Alarkén Nature Reserve, it has a shuttle service to the center and to the Cerro Castor ski resort in the winter.
Tip: take your passport to the Tourism Office, in the Center near Porto, to get your stamp for the end of the world.

El Calafate

The second obligatory stop on this route is El Calafate, which is smaller and more charming than Ushuaia and much more impressive in terms of landscapes. A two-hour flight separates the province of Santa Cruz, where the city of Ushuaia is located. The main attraction are the glaciers, in particular the Perito Moreno glacier, which, although not the largest, is the most visited. It has easy access through walkways that form paths for observation from different angles and viewpoints, to see it up close. The region is home to the largest ice field in the world and a program to get to know these white giants is essential in any itinerary. Facing the raw nature when walking on the ice in a program called Mini-Trekking (which only accepts children over 8 years old) is certainly one of the great experiences for any traveler. The tour starts with a walk and then offers free time to clamber over the ice sheets, with crampons on your shoes to avoid any falls. Seeing the ice breaking, detaching itself from the sheets into the sea is almost surreal, in addition to bringing to light the obvious effects of global warming that, at the poles, are even more latent. This is a good moment to, once again, explain to children the urgent need to take care of the planet and to invest in sustainable itineraries.

There are also other options to see this and other glaciers within the Los Glaciares National Park, such as the Nautical Safari, also ideal for younger people – who, in this case, should definitely wear thermal clothing. The cold is indeed glacial.

It is worth getting to know the Glaciarium, which is the ice museum at the entrance to the city. It has thematic areas and multimedia exhibitions that explain the formation of the glaciers and the need to be aware of climate change. And to really enter into the spirit of the occasion, why not try one of the local Ice Bars, where you can drink a juice at -10 ºC? There are several to be found in the city.

To learn a little about the history of El Calafate, visit one of the many historic estancias, former properties of the English, most of which have been converted into tourist attractions or museums, and which are of great historical and cultural interest. One of the most beautiful, the Estancia Cristina welcomes you in a typically Patagonian climate: access is after a beautiful boat ride of about two hours. An elegant lunch precedes the program, which can include horseback riding, hiking or a 4×4 trip to see the Upsala Glacier. To stay in comfort, the Kosten Aike is very close to the center. Built in an alpine style, it is a great alternative, because as it has an infrastructure for families, with a restaurant, large or adjoining rooms, a swimming pool and a games room.

El Chaltén

Another possibility is to take a three-hour drive by car to El Chaltén, which is an interesting stop for sports and nature lovers. The small town, at the foot of Mount Fitz Roy, is known for its several trekking routes with various levels of difficulty. Many travel agencies or receptions in El Calafate organize full-day trips there – enquire at your hotel. The other alternative is to rent a car and to drive there. It is worth knowing that the city has a much simpler structure and some glaciers – the most famous is the Viedma – and that all the tours are framed by the sharp peaks of the surrounding mountains, such as Cerro Torres. Among the programs recommended for children, choose the shortest trails: some lead to viewpoints and lakes whose panoramic scenery is the answer to the question: is it really worth traveling with children to the Argentine Patagonia? The answer is a resounding YES.

Bariloche

From El Calafate it is possible to take a 2-hour flight to Bariloche, known as the largest ski resort in Latin America but which offers many attractions and programs in the summer as well. There are trails, trekking, tours of the 7 Lakes, mountain biking, boat trips and (icy) lake beaches… You can rent a car or use a taxi, take a picnic basket and go to the Villa La Angostura or even cross the border to San Martín de los Andes, in Chile. The scenery is beautiful and there are plenty of options for stopping off on the way.

Make the most of your time in the region to get to know the Patagonia brewery, with a restaurant overlooking the Rio Negro. And to sleep, there is nothing better than a hotel like the Charming Luxury Lodge, on the edge of the lake and with a spa to relax in after all the trips and the walks or the Design Suites Bariloche, which is closer to the center.