Time-to-travel

The inspirational world of Inhotim

The largest open-air art museum is a feast of the senses for the entire family

By Denise Bobadilha

Modern art for the little ones? Absolutely! The Inhotim Institute is not only perfect for traveling as a family, but it also unintentionally changes adults into children once again. What’s more, the attractions are so abundant, immersive and exciting that the young ones won’t even think about their cell phones, video games or social networks. They will leave this immersion into culture with more curiosity for the wide world of art, in addition to spending a few days breathing fresh air and walking (or running) through the large gardens. Parents, if the truth be told, won’t disconnect quite so much because it’s irresistible to pull out the cell phone in order to take lots of photos.

For those who don’t know, the Institute Inhotim is the largest open-air museum of contemporary art in the world and is located in Brumadinho (MG), which is 60 km from Belo Horizonte. The numbers are really amazing, but let’s focus on just one: there are 140 hectares of visiting area (equivalent to more than 100 football fields), which mix an immense botanical garden and works of art of Homeric dimensions. There are different circuits to explore the works and golf carts are also available because walking around all of this can be tiring for visitors of all ages. By the way, it is good to warn you that the strollers are paid for separately (R$ 30 per person and free for children under five), but you can buy the pass and use them freely throughout the day. The maps offered at the entrance to the park indicate all the ways to go so that no one can get lost.

It takes at least two days to enjoy “the minimum” of Inhotim. And if you think the kids are going to be exhausted and will struggle to wake up on the second day, forget it: maybe they will be even more excited about the exploring than the adults.

But what makes Inhotim so attractive to everyone? The 23 galleries (four of which are always occupied by temporary exhibitions) include works that speak to the playful and the imaginary. For those visiting as a family, the orange axis (or circuit) is the ideal place to start. It includes works such as the letters on the grass by Marilá Dardot (large letter ceramic vases that can be placed on the lawn to form words and an area where children can use gardening tools to plant and make a mess); the True Rouge installation by Tunga, which looks like a laboratory with pieces that change shape all the time; the inviting swimming pool of Jorge Macchi (bring swimwear for the children who love water); Olafur Eliasson’s kaleidoscope, which teaches about colors and optics “by accident”; the labyrinth in the woods by Cristina Iglesias; the Cildo Meirelles gallery; the colorful VW Beetles by Jarbas Lopes; and the floating silver balls of Yayoi Kusama (the Japanese artist who is known for polka dots in her work), among many others. And this is all in practically just one circuit.

Between one work and another, the botanical garden provides both its beauty and also rest areas – in fact, the benches to sit on are also the works of artists. Snack bars and restaurants along the way complete the breaks throughout the day (but bring some snacks, bottles of water, sunscreen and a hat to avoid major problems). Another way to escape hassles is not to visit Inhotim when there are extended holidays: the open spaces are still free, but on days like these, the long lines for a simple coffee with cheese bread can upset anyone.

Speaking of cheese bread, family days in the capital of Minas will leave appetizing memories. Starting with the delights of the Belo Horizonte Market, a must-see for any fan of cheeses and delicacies from Minas Gerais and a place of exploration for children with different appetites (none of them can resist the variety of manioc starch biscuits, you can be sure!). BH also has parks and, above all, curious museums such as the Toy Museum and the CCBB BH.

Both in Inhotim and Belo Horizonte, it is best to leave the car at home. In the capital of Minas Gerais, it is much more practical to use taxis or transport apps in order not to waste time looking for a parking space. From BH to Inhotim, the best option is to use the executive buses of Saritur, which leave from the bus station of the capital and stop at the entrance of the Institute. While the children enjoy a nap on the way there and back, you can select the best photos of the day, which will immortalize those unforgettable moments, full of color and your interaction with a surprising world, detached from everyday life, but connected to new discoveries and enchantment.

Services

Where to stay:
Belo Horizonte:
Novotel BH Savassi has a big slide in the hall and the “Family Novotel” program with 50% discount for the second room.

For a more luxury experience, it is worth staying at the Hotel Fasano and hiring private services both to go and to visit with an exclusive guide; an exclusive package offered by the agency Viajar com Crianças, which offers a personalized itinerary for families looking for exclusive services.

Brumadinho: The city has several inns, some very charming and spacious for the family, such as the Pousada Verde Villas (daily rates from R$ 350).