My Brazil

Chapada Diamantina: the paradise of waterfalls

Located in the center of the state of Bahia, Chapada is a surprisingly family-friendly destination with activities for all ages, from trekking to bathing in waterfalls, amidst one of the most impressive scenarios in Brazil.

By Nathalia Hein

Sometimes you have to escape from the coast, forsake the large resorts and opt for adventure in order to make contact with a Brazil that, although well-known for its ecotourism, barely enters the minds of those traveling with children. Accordingly, forget about all the infinite beaches adorned with coconut trees in Bahia and turn your attention to the interior, more specifically to the center of the state, where one of the most impressive scenarios in the country, Chapada Diamantina, is located.

If your first reaction is fear at the thought of facing such a rustic destination with children, it is worth knowing that Chapada is indeed a place for the whole family, including younger children. Among the valleys, mountains with plateaus (hence the name), grottos, caves and waterfalls, there are so many activities that it is possible to arrange itineraries with different experiences for every age group. The interesting thing about this trip is precisely the need to get out of your comfort zone, to have the mutual help of one another to overcome obstacles and also to celebrate the achievements. One of the first points to consider is the selection of a comfortable guesthouse or hotel, which can serve as a fixed base, and also as a refuge of redemption to rest in after the days of sightseeing – which are indeed beautiful, possible for the little ones, and worth every drop of sweat.

There are several ways to get to Chapada. It is possible to fly to Salvador and, from there, to rent a car and drive about 480 km. However, the best option is to fly direct from São Paulo to the Horácio de Matos airport, in Lençóis, which is the city where your trip should start. GOL offers flights with a stopover in Salvador.

Marked by its colonial architecture, with many 19th century houses, it is one of the villages that were formed around the National Park due to mining, and ended up becoming the main urban center in the region, with most of the hotels, restaurants, shops and tourist agencies of Chapada. One of the best options in town, the Hotel Cantos das Águas, was recently renovated. It has very comfortable rooms, some with a private pool, and all the décor uses items by local artists. The common areas, with gardens, invite you to relax before and after tours.

The adaptation to the destination takes place through the experiences of the days spent in Chapada Diamantina and therefore it is worth having a clear plan in mind – seven days, with children, are sufficient to cover most of the attractions – but always with the support of an experienced guide who is very familiar with the difficulty levels of the trails and the different waterfalls or even an agency that organizes all the logistics and each program. The Viajar com Crianças [Travel with Children agency] has individual itineraries for the destination and has also launched the group of families with children for the holidays, which are interesting; even better it is accompanied by a teacher who explains the characteristics of the region.

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The days start early in Chapada. Therefore, after a strong coffee and preparing a backpack with lots of water, snacks, sunscreen, repellent and an “emergency first aid kit,” follow carefully the itinerary proposed by your guide. One of the best programs to immerse yourself in the climate of the region includes a walk alongside the Lençóis River, passing through the Caldeirões do Serrano, which are beautiful natural pools formed by the typical landscape of the Chapada, and a trail that extends up to the famous Salão de Areias Coloridas, passes by the Cachoeira Primavera and ends at the viewpoint of the city. The trail can be a little tiring for very small children, but the stops help you to get your breath back, rest for a while, and carry on. This is one of the reasons why it is always better to opt for a private guide, so that your family’s rhythm is always respected. This tour lasts for half a day. The other half can be spent enjoying the hotel or the city of Lençóis and visiting the Cultural Market, the square, the small stone streets and the mansions that date back to the period of mining in the city, which at one time was the largest producer of diamonds in the world.

Repeat the routine (and the backpack) for each new adventure. Not all the attractions have an appropriate infrastructure and the distances between them can be quite long. In any case, be sure to include a visit to the Gruta Lapa Doce in your program. It is 77 km from Lençóis to Iraquara, where the grotto is located, which is on private property and has a fee to enter. Access is via a trail permeated by the typical flora of the caatinga and a descent to the grotto, 17 meters below, using a staircase with a handrail. Armed with flashlights, everyone is astonished as they enter the gallery marked by hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites. It is interesting to observe everyone’s imagination, trying to unravel the different shapes and shadows. This is one of those moments when it is necessary to revere the force of nature – and it reinforces in our hearts the certainty that this type of trip is indeed to be made with children because, after all, there is nothing more important than showing them this imposing magnificence that is millions of years old.

Another very entertaining program to do with the family, with almost no age restrictions, is a visit to the Pratinha River (also requiring a fee, on a private farm), where a crystalline lake invites you to enjoy a dive and there is a 12-meter zipline. From there, most people climb the hill, with a steep incline at the end, up to the Morro do Pai Inácio, which offers a panoramic view over the Chapada Diamantina State Park.

Those who find it very tiring to go out and come back every day from the tours to Lençóis and have older children, can divide their stay with the city of Mucugê, which is another village from the mining era, with less hustle and good hotels. For example, there is the Refúgio na Serra Boutique Hotel, which is a true oasis of refinement and good taste: although essentially romantic, it offers two types of accommodation for families with children over 10 years old, as well as a restaurant and activities in the surrounding areas.

In addition to being a gateway to the Vale do Pati (an adventure that you will read about in a forthcoming article) and to the coveted Cachoeira da Fumaça (the largest in Brazil), Mucugê is also closer to attractions such as the unmissable Poço Azul and Poço Encantado (please note: children under 12 years old cannot enter the well). These are grottos with wells of fresh and crystalline water that, depending on the rays of the sun – generally between 12:00 and 14:00, especially between February and October – are in shades of turquoise blue, and where you can float with a life-vest, snorkel and mask. There is also a snack bar and a place to rent equipment.

From here you can venture out to the most coveted waterfall in the region, the Cachoeira do Buracão, which is 100 km away. Hiring a guide is obligatory and to reach the waterfall, with an impressive height 85 of meters, it is necessary to overcome the challenge of an easy trail of about 6 km. Even so, the tour is indicated for children over eight years old, who are happy to walk. The arrival rewards any fatigue and, once again, makes nature an emblem of power and magnitude and places us mere mortals in our due proportion: a life lesson for all time.